My first mod - Hint: Switzer Tune
Oct 2, 2011 | 04:54 PM
#41
Teamspeed Pro
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 2,770
kuwaiti weather adds 30+ hp, very happy to oblige and test it for you man
don't feel like you're burdening me, not at all
i got your back
CONGRATULATIONS
imo that is too much power for any gulf country but maybe i'm getting old
don't feel like you're burdening me, not at all
i got your back
CONGRATULATIONS
imo that is too much power for any gulf country but maybe i'm getting old
Oct 21, 2011 | 11:29 AM
#44
Thread Starter
| Teamspeed Pro
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 2,882
Made this video today.. its not clear but if you watch on full screen you can see me go from around 70kmh to 220kmh (started in 2nd and went to end of 4th gear).
Since this thread started and today I've gone from the tune to stock back to the tune, and the difference is quite significant. The car is much more responsive, the boost kicks in sooner and goes through the RPMs much faster.
70 220 - YouTube
Since this thread started and today I've gone from the tune to stock back to the tune, and the difference is quite significant. The car is much more responsive, the boost kicks in sooner and goes through the RPMs much faster.
70 220 - YouTube
Oct 21, 2011 | 03:37 PM
#45
Teamspeed Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 469
MC, ,Many thanks for sharing your story and pics.
Trying to measure on a chassis dyno is very difficult (forgetting how inaccurate they are in the first place) since especially on GT2s with their high boost levels, the intake temps go very high and very quickly. As soon as your intake temp goes over 55c you are losing power.....
I tried dynoing mine on a chassis dyno with similar cooling as your pics show and I was watching the IATs during the run and trust me, they shoot up so quickly.
The only way to be happy with the power numbers is to watch the IATs and ensure that they are staying in the green (ie below 55c)
based on the above your gain could be actually even better than the numbers suggest although the engine really needs some of the back pressure taken out of the system to really help things.
Have you considered cats ? I have a set of Cargraphic 200 cell bolt on cats which I ran briefly, they would be a nice addition to your package (and sound awesome) but TBH shipping to the mid east would probably kill any deal - do you have a CG dealer over there ?
Trying to measure on a chassis dyno is very difficult (forgetting how inaccurate they are in the first place
) since especially on GT2s with their high boost levels, the intake temps go very high and very quickly. As soon as your intake temp goes over 55c you are losing power.....I tried dynoing mine on a chassis dyno with similar cooling as your pics show and I was watching the IATs during the run and trust me, they shoot up so quickly.
The only way to be happy with the power numbers is to watch the IATs and ensure that they are staying in the green (ie below 55c)
based on the above your gain could be actually even better than the numbers suggest although the engine really needs some of the back pressure taken out of the system to really help things.
Have you considered cats ? I have a set of Cargraphic 200 cell bolt on cats which I ran briefly, they would be a nice addition to your package (and sound awesome) but TBH shipping to the mid east would probably kill any deal - do you have a CG dealer over there ?
Thanks for the info..oh yes I might be interested in your cargraphic cats--they do not trigger a check engine light? what about hp claims?
Here is my case, will either change to 997 GT2 or GT3 3.8..I know they are different cars - the orginal gt2 certainly faster..but I know people with GT3 too that leave a GT2 dead too- if its not circuits with very long straights..but those GT3s are also modified..the thing is however if you modify GT2..you can get close to GT2RS..and then there is not much left to compete with
A couple of questions from my side:
1) I am looking at a 997 GT2 from february 2009..do you know when producion was stopped?
2) how many GT2 were produced
3) what about the possibilty to getting GT2RS look - at reasonble prices - I see you have the GT2RS rear bumper..but people tell me: "if you cant proove to Porsche that you own a GT2RS they will not sell you any of these parts"..? true?
4) what about "upgrading to centre look" wheels..I knew there was a time when Porsche was having such kits for 997 turbo..
5) what else have you done with your GT2?
6) what about driving experience..what I really like in a gT3 its very lively..the original Gt2 is a bit "tamer-slower in reactions"..+ the sound is not good...bu I suppose you have corrected that all
thanks for your answers..
@MCI321: super video..and super car!
Dec 22, 2011 | 04:21 AM
#47
Thread Starter
| Teamspeed Pro
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 2,882
OK, I don't think it is worth creating a new thread so I'll just summarize here.
The car was running great with the tune the first week, but I was never pushing it as I was driving in traffic to and from work. I travelled for two weeks and took it out one night and it started "overboosting" - meaning if I push the pedal in third gear or fourth, once the RPM reaches about 4.5k it would jump to redline and the turbo would not kick in, and I'd get the overboost sign. This didn't happen if I started pushing in second gear though.
I had some back and forth communication with Switzer, but they'd never seen this before. Maybe it has something to do with Middle East spec GT2, I'm not sure, but they tried to help. They resent me the tune and it worked fine, but only for the first drive.. then next time I took the car out, same problem. It seems to be fine on the first day and then something would happen. About two weeks into this, I wrote to Switzer and told them I'd rather have a slower but reliable running car and that I was going to write-off this expense and keep the car stock. Although they insisted on helping by asking me to keep logs of certain parameters, I didn't want to run the car with this tune and risk damage to the engine, so I declined. I am now exploring other options.
The car was running great with the tune the first week, but I was never pushing it as I was driving in traffic to and from work. I travelled for two weeks and took it out one night and it started "overboosting" - meaning if I push the pedal in third gear or fourth, once the RPM reaches about 4.5k it would jump to redline and the turbo would not kick in, and I'd get the overboost sign. This didn't happen if I started pushing in second gear though.
I had some back and forth communication with Switzer, but they'd never seen this before. Maybe it has something to do with Middle East spec GT2, I'm not sure, but they tried to help. They resent me the tune and it worked fine, but only for the first drive.. then next time I took the car out, same problem. It seems to be fine on the first day and then something would happen. About two weeks into this, I wrote to Switzer and told them I'd rather have a slower but reliable running car and that I was going to write-off this expense and keep the car stock. Although they insisted on helping by asking me to keep logs of certain parameters, I didn't want to run the car with this tune and risk damage to the engine, so I declined. I am now exploring other options.
Dec 22, 2011 | 04:27 AM
#48
Teamspeed Pro
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 2,301
From: DC
OK, I don't think it is worth creating a new thread so I'll just summarize here.
The car was running great with the tune the first week, but I was never pushing it as I was driving in traffic to and from work. I travelled for two weeks and took it out one night and it started "overboosting" - meaning if I push the pedal in third gear or fourth, once the RPM reaches about 4.5k it would jump to redline and the turbo would not kick in, and I'd get the overboost sign. This didn't happen if I started pushing in second gear though.
I had some back and forth communication with Switzer, but they'd never seen this before. Maybe it has something to do with Middle East spec GT2, I'm not sure, but they tried to help. They resent me the tune and it worked fine, but only for the first drive.. then next time I took the car out, same problem. It seems to be fine on the first day and then something would happen. About two weeks into this, I wrote to Switzer and told them I'd rather have a slower but reliable running car and that I was going to write-off this expense and keep the car stock. Although they insisted on helping by asking me to keep logs of certain parameters, I didn't want to run the car with this tune and risk damage to the engine, so I declined. I am now exploring other options.
The car was running great with the tune the first week, but I was never pushing it as I was driving in traffic to and from work. I travelled for two weeks and took it out one night and it started "overboosting" - meaning if I push the pedal in third gear or fourth, once the RPM reaches about 4.5k it would jump to redline and the turbo would not kick in, and I'd get the overboost sign. This didn't happen if I started pushing in second gear though.
I had some back and forth communication with Switzer, but they'd never seen this before. Maybe it has something to do with Middle East spec GT2, I'm not sure, but they tried to help. They resent me the tune and it worked fine, but only for the first drive.. then next time I took the car out, same problem. It seems to be fine on the first day and then something would happen. About two weeks into this, I wrote to Switzer and told them I'd rather have a slower but reliable running car and that I was going to write-off this expense and keep the car stock. Although they insisted on helping by asking me to keep logs of certain parameters, I didn't want to run the car with this tune and risk damage to the engine, so I declined. I am now exploring other options.
Dec 22, 2011 | 12:13 PM
#49
OK, I don't think it is worth creating a new thread so I'll just summarize here.
The car was running great with the tune the first week, but I was never pushing it as I was driving in traffic to and from work. I travelled for two weeks and took it out one night and it started "overboosting" - meaning if I push the pedal in third gear or fourth, once the RPM reaches about 4.5k it would jump to redline and the turbo would not kick in, and I'd get the overboost sign. This didn't happen if I started pushing in second gear though.
I had some back and forth communication with Switzer, but they'd never seen this before. Maybe it has something to do with Middle East spec GT2, I'm not sure, but they tried to help. They resent me the tune and it worked fine, but only for the first drive.. then next time I took the car out, same problem. It seems to be fine on the first day and then something would happen. About two weeks into this, I wrote to Switzer and told them I'd rather have a slower but reliable running car and that I was going to write-off this expense and keep the car stock. Although they insisted on helping by asking me to keep logs of certain parameters, I didn't want to run the car with this tune and risk damage to the engine, so I declined. I am now exploring other options.
The car was running great with the tune the first week, but I was never pushing it as I was driving in traffic to and from work. I travelled for two weeks and took it out one night and it started "overboosting" - meaning if I push the pedal in third gear or fourth, once the RPM reaches about 4.5k it would jump to redline and the turbo would not kick in, and I'd get the overboost sign. This didn't happen if I started pushing in second gear though.
I had some back and forth communication with Switzer, but they'd never seen this before. Maybe it has something to do with Middle East spec GT2, I'm not sure, but they tried to help. They resent me the tune and it worked fine, but only for the first drive.. then next time I took the car out, same problem. It seems to be fine on the first day and then something would happen. About two weeks into this, I wrote to Switzer and told them I'd rather have a slower but reliable running car and that I was going to write-off this expense and keep the car stock. Although they insisted on helping by asking me to keep logs of certain parameters, I didn't want to run the car with this tune and risk damage to the engine, so I declined. I am now exploring other options.
A datalog would go a long way in sorting this issue out. I understand your position and respect your decision however it would be extremely helpful for all parties involved if accurate datalogs were obtained.