ROBOLOP BERYLLIUM BMW 323ci
#91
remote control.


In the alu piece where I made this, I made an extra plate on the bottomside, fastened with one tiny screw.
like this, I can always get into the inside, and he can changes the batterie from time to time.





In the alu piece where I made this, I made an extra plate on the bottomside, fastened with one tiny screw.
like this, I can always get into the inside, and he can changes the batterie from time to time.



#92
Here you can see where the remote control will slide into. As you can see, I put some selfclitting vilt on the sides, and the bottom.
Did this to make sure it all glides nicely...


You see the slot in the middle.
backside, tightened with that screw.

This alu plate lays on top, and is tightened with little screws. If there would be a problem, it's not hard to get into it all.

On the bottomside, you see I made something simple where he can get into with the finger, to glide it all out.


The thing in the car.

It'll be super easy to control the radio. Nothin' will feel stodgy while riding the car.

All of this has to go in primer.
After that the console is going in satin-black, like he original was. the remote will be sprayed in the same silver as the rest (trims, ...)
Did this to make sure it all glides nicely...


You see the slot in the middle.
backside, tightened with that screw.

This alu plate lays on top, and is tightened with little screws. If there would be a problem, it's not hard to get into it all.

On the bottomside, you see I made something simple where he can get into with the finger, to glide it all out.


The thing in the car.

It'll be super easy to control the radio. Nothin' will feel stodgy while riding the car.

All of this has to go in primer.
After that the console is going in satin-black, like he original was. the remote will be sprayed in the same silver as the rest (trims, ...)
#93
The remote got it's color.
It also got a nice contract with the Alpine buttons.



One thing to do still, is to paint the little screw (where it's tightened with) in silver.

This would be the innerview of the armrest.
This will be the new coverplate that'll come above the remote control.
I made little heights. (do not understimate the time that goes into this, it's a ****ed up job)


On the left,you can see the Nokia mobile phone. Took this one for takin' pictures.
On the right, you see a IRIVER MP4 player.I can attach this on the radio, and watch movies en pictures on it.
I normally doesn't buy this stuff, but it will look pretty cool...
Gotta help belgium economy.

They'll be worked in on the alu plate like this

It also got a nice contract with the Alpine buttons.



One thing to do still, is to paint the little screw (where it's tightened with) in silver.

This would be the innerview of the armrest.
This will be the new coverplate that'll come above the remote control.
I made little heights. (do not understimate the time that goes into this, it's a ****ed up job)


On the left,you can see the Nokia mobile phone. Took this one for takin' pictures.
On the right, you see a IRIVER MP4 player.I can attach this on the radio, and watch movies en pictures on it.
I normally doesn't buy this stuff, but it will look pretty cool...
Gotta help belgium economy.

They'll be worked in on the alu plate like this

#94
On the front of these toys, I made a little ditch, so you can get the things with your finger
Don't mind the dust.

this silver box will be under the mp4 player.

here the ears will be, and a lamp. So this also gets a good space and doesn't lay beneath my feet or something.
The amrest almost finished, and put back in the beemer.
If you see it like this, nothing special...That's the beauty of it.

On the bottom the little grey lip to pull out the remote control.

This is how it looks like when the remote is out. Easy to control now.
The gear is set to D, so can't go further the back.
You can see there's enought place between both things.



Don't mind the dust.

this silver box will be under the mp4 player.

here the ears will be, and a lamp. So this also gets a good space and doesn't lay beneath my feet or something.
The amrest almost finished, and put back in the beemer.
If you see it like this, nothing special...That's the beauty of it.

On the bottom the little grey lip to pull out the remote control.

This is how it looks like when the remote is out. Easy to control now.
The gear is set to D, so can't go further the back.
You can see there's enought place between both things.



#96
I have been thinking things over. I forgot that i still have a set of realy ugly Focal crossover.


At first i wanted to integrate them in an MDF board, but that's not flashy enough.
Now i'm going to integrate then completely so that i can let them come out automaticly. At least i'm going to try...
These are the filters i was talking about.
The white plastic strips will be replaced by black strips.


I can say that this looks much better.

The plexy boards were the filters used to be mounted on are now removed.
I've replaced them with an MDF board wich got an "uppermill treatement'


This board will be mounted on top of the other one

Here you can see them on top of eachother

I made this because i didn't want the speakercables to be visible.

So the cables are guided from one side to another inbetween the 2 boards.

Filters mounted...





At first i wanted to integrate them in an MDF board, but that's not flashy enough.
Now i'm going to integrate then completely so that i can let them come out automaticly. At least i'm going to try...
These are the filters i was talking about.
The white plastic strips will be replaced by black strips.


I can say that this looks much better.

The plexy boards were the filters used to be mounted on are now removed.
I've replaced them with an MDF board wich got an "uppermill treatement'


This board will be mounted on top of the other one

Here you can see them on top of eachother

I made this because i didn't want the speakercables to be visible.

So the cables are guided from one side to another inbetween the 2 boards.

Filters mounted...



#97
Here you can see that i have enough space between the board for the wires.


On this picture you can see the tray while it is closing. The hightec stick you can see will be made out of carbon.


This is what it lookes like when it is fully opened.


Here i show you how far i'm going to allow it to open.




On this picture you can see the tray while it is closing. The hightec stick you can see will be made out of carbon.


This is what it lookes like when it is fully opened.


Here i show you how far i'm going to allow it to open.


#98
I'm going to cover the crossovercase with a piece of plexy. I usually allway try to use real glass, but because i want this one to bend a bit, i'm forced to use plexy.
I first intended to just order a "ready-made" piece, but instead i'm going to try to bend it myself.
the plexy has a 5mm gauche.
The first test came out pretty good.
I've clamped and than heated it with a hot air paint remover.
This is the result.

I noticed that by heating it, it get's rough.
so i had to sand the irregularity. First with a wet nr 800 sandpaper, then with a nr 1200, to end with a nr 2000. Afterwards i polished the entire piece.

The ends of the plexy piece were pretty deformed, but i was able to fix this.

Then it was time to start on the big piece op plexy wich had to cover the entire crossover case.
This i had to clamp on as much points as possible, bucause i was affraid that it would easely deform because of the heat.



than i heated it nicely so that it would easely bent.


If you don't fixate it firmly, everything will deform for sure. Here you can see that my piece is pretty straight.

I first intended to just order a "ready-made" piece, but instead i'm going to try to bend it myself.
the plexy has a 5mm gauche.
The first test came out pretty good.
I've clamped and than heated it with a hot air paint remover.
This is the result.

I noticed that by heating it, it get's rough.
so i had to sand the irregularity. First with a wet nr 800 sandpaper, then with a nr 1200, to end with a nr 2000. Afterwards i polished the entire piece.

The ends of the plexy piece were pretty deformed, but i was able to fix this.

Then it was time to start on the big piece op plexy wich had to cover the entire crossover case.
This i had to clamp on as much points as possible, bucause i was affraid that it would easely deform because of the heat.



than i heated it nicely so that it would easely bent.


If you don't fixate it firmly, everything will deform for sure. Here you can see that my piece is pretty straight.

#100
i've decided to use a motor .




The frame to mount the cross over tray also needed some extra attention to make it stronger.
Now, finally, everthing works as planned.
So now it is time to complete the next step: make the covers for all this...




The frame to mount the cross over tray also needed some extra attention to make it stronger.
Now, finally, everthing works as planned.
So now it is time to complete the next step: make the covers for all this...














