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MoeTip: Splish, splash, let's take a bath!

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Old 12-28-2008, 06:14 PM
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MoeTip: Splish, splash, let's take a bath!

If there's one aspect of detailing that I'd say is most important yet overlooked, it would be washing. Think about it; you pay hundreds, maybe thousands, to get a proper detail. You're given a car that is almost flawless and has never looked so great. But now what? What are you going to do to keep it looking this way? Well, this is where it gets puzzling. Do you take it to the car wash, pay a detailer at the office, or do it yourself? The first two choices are the least labor intensive. I mean, how hard is to take the car to the local gas station or Auto Spa, hand over the keys to some guy you don't know, and a cafe latte and 20 minutes later, your car is shiny and clean. Or, let's step it up a notch and hand it over to the local wash guy that makes his rounds at your office. Surely he must do a much better job, and you never left the office. Well my friends, this convenience comes at a cost. The cost may be swirls, scratches, a dent that you know wasn't there before but you're being told it was. Who knows what else was done but is overseen by you. Suddenly, the desirable and convenient becomes anything but.

What I'm trying to lead you to is how simple and rewarding a wash can be if you have the correct technique and products. So let's start with most basic of ingredients, soap. There's a reason you see soaps specifically made for automotive finish. Paint has its own natural oils that are there to maintain gloss, and in some areas, flexibility. By using dish soap, cheap automotive soap, or petroleum-based soaps, you're robbing the finish of its oils.

The solution is using a high-quality, pH balanced soap that is gentle on the finish and is effective at removing grime. You'll notice one main difference between a high quality soap apposed to an inferior one: how little product is used. There are several high quality soaps from P21S, Autoglym, Zymol, einszett, etc. The two soaps I favor are Zymol Clear or einszett Perls. Both are excellent soaps with very different ingredients. Zymol Clear is an all-natural spun tallow based soap that gently lifts dirt and does not strip wax. Einszett Perls is a polymer-based technology that safely cleans and imparts an extra gloss finish.



What you wash the car with is just as important as what soap is used. Your choices are wide: synthetic sheepskin, microfiber, foam sponge, or my favorite, all-natural Australian or New Zealand sheepskin. Synthetic sheepskin is a cheaper alternative to the real version. I find the nap to become stiff, and almost brillo-like, after a few washes. Microfiber is soft in the beginning but traps dirt and over time, you end up rubbing the embedded dirt into the finish causing scratches. The foam sponge isn't all that bad, but you once again run the risk of dirt getting trapped in the cells of the sponge. The reason why I prefer natural sheepskin is that it's the softest of all choices. Natural sheepskin is very gentle and won't harm the finish.

Now that you've got the right soap and mitt, what will you dry with? Your choices are simple: cotton bath towel, synthetic chamois, natural chamois, microfiber drying cloth, or air dry. The cotton towel is old technology and should be left in the shower. The nap of the towel will actually scratch today's soft automotive finish. Synthetic chamois trap dirt over time and scratch the finish. Anyone who's used a natural chamois can attest to its glue-like suction power, not to mention the oil used in the tanning process strips the wax from the finish. The newest technology replacing chamois is microfiber drying cloths. Try and get one with a foam core that is also a waffle weave. The waffle patters allows you to feel the finish and know when you need to polish or clay again. The foam is an excellent buffer between your hand and the finish assuring you don't press too hard, therefore, minimizing halograms. The ideal way of drying is to air dry or force air dry. If you have the convenience of using de-ionized water, you can simply air dry or use a forced air dryer such as an Airmax. The beauty of the Airmax is that it has a dual stage filtration system, heated air, and dual stage motors. This yields you clean and powerful air in a compact unit. The result is drying without ever touching the finish.



So that's it, a typical routine can take as little as 30 minutes; even less if using de-ionized water. CR Spotless makes an excellent system. The units start at $299.99 and you receive free shipping when purchasing at Glistening Perfection. PM, visit our site, or call to place orders.

As always, please feel free to ask any questions, tell me your comments, or share your unique experience on this subject. See you soon.
 

Last edited by MoeMistry; 12-28-2008 at 08:03 PM.
  #2  
Old 12-28-2008, 06:20 PM
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I always enjoy reading you write-ups! Rep!
 
  #3  
Old 12-28-2008, 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by strebo
I always enjoy reading you write-ups! Rep!
Thanks...you guys keep reading, and I'll keep writing. Let me know what subject you'd like more info on. Also, please feel free to comment on any improvements I can make on the style and format of these write ups.
 
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