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what to look for in an E39 M5

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Old Nov 17, 2010 | 09:25 PM
  #1  
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what to look for in an E39 M5

baby on the way, we need a 4 door, E39's have dropped down into a very appealing price range. What do I need to know when looking? How's maintenance? How easy are they to work on (Things like brakes, suspension, etc). Clutch replacement costs, etc?
 
Old Nov 17, 2010 | 10:30 PM
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Paging Stuka, the E39 M5 expert.
 
Old Nov 17, 2010 | 10:56 PM
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1. Only look at 03 (last year production), at this point in the depreciation curve, no point looking at anything older.

2. Most likely you will need to replace the MAF and the CPS if they are original.

3. A DVD update map is 200 bucks from BMW.

4. The OEM BT module is about 700 bucks and change in parts from Tischer.

5. 03's have BM53, which allows you to install OEM AUX input.

6. Check the NAV screen, some are in sad shape and need to be replaced.

7. Valve cover gaskets are probably leaking if they are original.

8. Powersteering hoses are probably leaking if they are original.

9. If you are doing valve cover gaskets, replace all the sparkplugs too.

10. If the car has low miles, the oil valves probably have oil build up since it's 10/60 oil, but the o ring change job is easy. Just have them do it along with the oil change.

11. Only use TWS 10/60 oil.

12. If the air filter is original, chance are, once they are replaced, if you are on original MAF's, you will get service engine soon light because the MAF's are not able to cope with the increased airflow. bimmerzone sells MAF replacement at only 300 bucks.

13. The rear swaybar links are probably broken in they are original.

14. Check all bushings, if they are original they are probably shot.

15. The driver side seat bolster are probably worn, a new leather replacement is about 600 bucks from Tischer.

16. Check for lazy door locks, they go on the E39.

17. Join m5board and start reading up, those guys know everything about the car.

18. Buy a peake code reader, the E39's are easy to fix.

19. A sub 40K mile 03 M5 can be had for high 20K, mine was.

Good luck, I love the M5.
 
Old Nov 17, 2010 | 11:06 PM
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Loved my 03 E39 M5, good luck with it, you will love them. They're cheap to buy but not cheap to fix, so do your homework...
 
Old Nov 17, 2010 | 11:09 PM
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Originally Posted by sean
Loved my 03 E39 M5, good luck with it, you will love them. They're cheap to buy but not cheap to fix, so do your homework...
+1.

You are fixing a 70K car when things go wrong, so you should at least be semi handy and can do basic diagnostics and repair.

The MAF thing literally took me 5 minutes to fix. Just unscrew 2 screws on each housing, drop in the new Bosch unit from bimmerzone, screw them in, done.

But if you were to buy one from BMW, they will only sell you one complete with housing, almost twice as expensive as the Bosch MAF's inside them.

TWS 10/60 is about 11 bucks a quart.

For example.
 
Old Nov 18, 2010 | 12:51 AM
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M5board E 39 M5 FAQ
 

Last edited by Alex; Nov 18, 2010 at 12:53 AM.
Old Nov 18, 2010 | 01:40 AM
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I own an e39 M5 and I'm baffled by the amount of info stuka listed
 
Old Nov 18, 2010 | 01:45 AM
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Great post stuka!!
 
Old Nov 18, 2010 | 02:06 AM
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Stuka covered most of it. I don't agree with only buying a 03. You only get the aux option and DVD Nav, by now most 02's have been upgraded anyway. Tischer is a great source for parts, but shop Bimmernav as well to make sure you get the best price on the Blue Tooth. Alex listed the most important thing by far, E39 M5 Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) - The Unofficial BMW M5 Messageboard (m5board.com) you will learn everything you need to know. Don't be shy about buying a car that is not in your home town. Ask the M5 Board who is the best indy in the area where the car is located and have the PPI done there. Listen for VANOS knock, all M5's have some knock on start up but a VANOS knock will persist after the car is driven for 10-15 mins. A VANOS replacement is the single most expensive repair you could run into. If you are buying local and you have decided that the M5 is the car for you, buy a Peake scanner TODAY. Use it every time you check a car. Codes can be erased so it isn't fool proof, but it might just save you $300 on a PPI only to have the mechanic hook up the G1 to find out there are big issues. I also recommend running the codes (write them down) and clearing them before your test drive, then when you get back from your drive check the codes again and see if anything pops up. Also keep in mind that not all mechanic clear the codes each time so the first time you read them don't be alarmed they could be old codes that were never cleared.

Lastly, look for cars for sale on the M5board. Most are priced a bit high and they expect to get value for the mods (never pay for mods over the real price of the car), but it is nice to go back and read the sellers posts and threads and you can get a good idea of what has been done to the car and if he was a do it yourself kind of guy. You can learn allot about the car and buyer if you find one there you like.

Well I guess I have a few other items...Rear view mirrors have a known issues with the liquid leaking out of them. The dash can have issues with dead pixels.

If you buy new wheels and want to sell your rear OEM wheels, please let me know!
 
Old Nov 18, 2010 | 04:44 AM
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Are you out of your mind?

Given all your circumstances you should lease a $200.00 Camry and be done with it. One big repair bill and you'll regret the M5.
 



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