Info on owning a Lotus
#11
09-02-2011, 02:54 AM
They're fairly reliable so far as the driveline goes, though there are a few issues to be aware of:
- If you're seriously tracking it on sticky tires, you can run into fuel starve and oil starve issues. Fix 'em with a fuel surge tank and either a baffled oil pan (moroso) and/or an accusump.
- The stock engine mounts are very soft and can lead to exhaust cracks on track driven cars, there are many cheap solutions to the problem out there using poly inserts or replacement mounts.
- Early cars not equipped with a rear toe link reinforcement bar should be so equipped.
- A number of people have experienced camshaft problems with the 2ZZ which can result in broken VVT rockers. It's not a bad idea to upgrade them to an aftermarket setup (e.g. piper)
- Some people have experienced issues with the oil cooler lines separating. I've never seen it happen personally, and mine are in great shape, but if you're the paranoid sort it's worth at least inspecting them prior to a purchase.
Other than that, they're pretty reliable. Most of the bangs and rattles people report are due to a lack of service-- e.g. the windows like to rattle in the doors, but only when they are not occasionally tightened in their mounts.
The only other thing to note is that the body clamshells are fairly fragile, so if he's going to race at a track without much runoff area, it would be wise to take it easy. The upshot is that when (not if) he damages the clams, you can simply have them repaired and strengthened by any decent fiberglass shop.
- If you're seriously tracking it on sticky tires, you can run into fuel starve and oil starve issues. Fix 'em with a fuel surge tank and either a baffled oil pan (moroso) and/or an accusump.
- The stock engine mounts are very soft and can lead to exhaust cracks on track driven cars, there are many cheap solutions to the problem out there using poly inserts or replacement mounts.
- Early cars not equipped with a rear toe link reinforcement bar should be so equipped.
- A number of people have experienced camshaft problems with the 2ZZ which can result in broken VVT rockers. It's not a bad idea to upgrade them to an aftermarket setup (e.g. piper)
- Some people have experienced issues with the oil cooler lines separating. I've never seen it happen personally, and mine are in great shape, but if you're the paranoid sort it's worth at least inspecting them prior to a purchase.
Other than that, they're pretty reliable. Most of the bangs and rattles people report are due to a lack of service-- e.g. the windows like to rattle in the doors, but only when they are not occasionally tightened in their mounts.
The only other thing to note is that the body clamshells are fairly fragile, so if he's going to race at a track without much runoff area, it would be wise to take it easy. The upshot is that when (not if) he damages the clams, you can simply have them repaired and strengthened by any decent fiberglass shop.
I'll slowly start "fullproofing" mine when ever I have time.
#12
09-02-2011, 05:15 AM
you lot are lucky
ive owned 3 from new
the s1's were a nightmare.
reliable in the sense they were cheap to fix.
and lets not mention when it rains for the roof.
ive owned 3 from new
the s1's were a nightmare.
reliable in the sense they were cheap to fix.
and lets not mention when it rains for the roof.
#14
09-07-2011, 10:06 PM
After 2/3 a year with mine, I can honestly echo what others are saying.
The other thing to keep in mind is maintenance.
Talked to a friend about how much his rear tires cost to replace on his Corvette - $2k. On a Lotus - something like $600. Oil change in my Audi TT was $130, the Lotus was like $150 from the dealer. I know a previous Lotus mechanic elsewhere, so it should be even cheaper now.
Another downside - there is no room in this car. I'm in the process of installing a JL Audio stealthbox (one 10" sub) and it's taken me many hours to just run a power wire and RCAs a few feet. And my hands are completely cut up, but at least I'm almost done.
If I find the time tomorrow to run the speaker wire, connect the power wire to the battery, and install the sub, you'll all see a new thread.
The other thing to keep in mind is maintenance.
Talked to a friend about how much his rear tires cost to replace on his Corvette - $2k. On a Lotus - something like $600. Oil change in my Audi TT was $130, the Lotus was like $150 from the dealer. I know a previous Lotus mechanic elsewhere, so it should be even cheaper now.
Another downside - there is no room in this car. I'm in the process of installing a JL Audio stealthbox (one 10" sub) and it's taken me many hours to just run a power wire and RCAs a few feet. And my hands are completely cut up, but at least I'm almost done.
If I find the time tomorrow to run the speaker wire, connect the power wire to the battery, and install the sub, you'll all see a new thread.
#15
09-07-2011, 10:11 PM
After that it's a pretty simple process to run wire through the shifter cover.
Note that when you pull the dash cover, you need four airbag cover clips to reassemble.
Last edited by Simba; 09-07-2011 at 10:16 PM.
#16
09-07-2011, 10:15 PM
Moroso pan is model # 20970. Can get it from anyone who carries Moroso-- Summit and Jegs generally both have it in stock.
Toe link bar can be had from many sources, including Lotus (for the Exige track pack).
Cams are likewise available from anyone who carries Piper-- they come in various profiles.
Oil cooler lines can be custom rolled by any competent race shop. Pegasus has the BSP to AN adapters, everything else is largely off the shelf Earls bits.
#17
09-07-2011, 10:30 PM
It's pretty simple, you just need to remove EVERYTHING to run cable of any sort. Pull the dash cover, the binnacle, shifter cover, rear panel, seats, everything. Only way to run cable from the inside of the dash to the rear of a car (e.g. for an amp) is to drill a hole through the dash support. Locate the main harness where it leaves the upper dash area for the lower, and there's plenty of space to pop a few ~3/4" holes for additional wiring. You'll need to remove the pax airbag to get at the location I'm talking about, but that isn't difficult.
After that it's a pretty simple process to run wire through the shifter cover.
Note that when you pull the dash cover, you need four airbag cover clips to reassemble.
After that it's a pretty simple process to run wire through the shifter cover.
Note that when you pull the dash cover, you need four airbag cover clips to reassemble.
For the power, I had to remove the harness bar, the rear trim piece that has the speakers, and I had to move the foam insulation. Followed existing power wires through grommet, under airbox. I ran the cable through the hole that used to hold the trunk support, which is exactly the size of the 8ga. wire I used. Since I have the Sector111 LidBone, I removed that support long ago.
Scroll down for more info:
Lotus Elise Amplifier Installation
You know off hand if an amp turn-on wire is in that 6" in-between harness that goes from the head unit to the car's connectors? If not, I might have to get a spare harness and use one of those pins.
Last edited by diskreet; 09-07-2011 at 10:33 PM.
But I agree, really good stuff.
#20
09-08-2011, 10:19 PM
As an update, finished all he wiring for the stereo. No amp turn-on built into the harness, so I used a pin from an old pc harness and just taped it to the rest of the stereo harness.
All I have to do tomorrow is bolt in the sub, put the center console back together and clean up.
Can't wait!
All I have to do tomorrow is bolt in the sub, put the center console back together and clean up.
Can't wait!
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