997TT geometry settings
#1
997TT geometry settings
Hi guys
I am trying to compile a table with everyone's geometry settings for their 997 Turbos (converted into degrees and minutes of a degree). This is what I have thus far, compiled from various sources.
Please tell me if I need to change anything or if you have more info you would like to contribute then I can add you to the table.
I am still searching for my perfect set-up. Right now my winter setting is still too jittery under hard acceleration. I will be trying Nick's set-up next I think, however it won't be for another month and by then the cold weather will probably have passed and I will want summer settings (like the stock GT3) again.
I am trying to compile a table with everyone's geometry settings for their 997 Turbos (converted into degrees and minutes of a degree). This is what I have thus far, compiled from various sources.
Please tell me if I need to change anything or if you have more info you would like to contribute then I can add you to the table.
I am still searching for my perfect set-up. Right now my winter setting is still too jittery under hard acceleration. I will be trying Nick's set-up next I think, however it won't be for another month and by then the cold weather will probably have passed and I will want summer settings (like the stock GT3) again.
#5
Ta v much! Just trying to get my head around all the settings that are out there. Together we can collaborate with this info a lot better than just between owner and dealer.
I will keep updating the table as more info comes in from this site and others.
I would say that of everyone on the above list, that TT Surgeon and Cannga are probably the happiest with their setups.
I will keep updating the table as more info comes in from this site and others.
I would say that of everyone on the above list, that TT Surgeon and Cannga are probably the happiest with their setups.
#7
Added some notes. I guessed at track use and happiness with settings from posts people have put up.
If you want to change anything please let me know and I will update table.
I am thinking of putting a lot more toe in on my front to aid grip. Here's a great site for information: R/C Car Handling - Touring Car Setup Guide
Caster
Caster is a very sensitive adjustment!
Adding or removing a few degrees of caster can transform the steering balance of a car. More More caster aids stability, especially at high speeds.
More caster generally suits large, open, high-speed tracks. Less Less caster increases steering drastically.
Steering feels much more direct, the car turns tighter and faster.
Small amounts of caster are suitable for tight tracks.
Toe
Rear Toe-in This is one of the most sensitive adjustments! One degree goes a long way.
Stabilizes the car greatly. It makes the rear end 'stick'. The more toe-in you use, the more the rear of the car sticks. This is especially apparent going into and coming out of turns.
But more toe-in makes the difference between sticking and breaking loose bigger.
Large amounts of toe-in (2.5 ... 3 degrees) scrub off a little speed in the straights. Rear Toe-out Rear toe-out is never used. It makes the rear of the car very, very unstable. Front Toe-in Stabilizes the car in the straights, and coming out of turns.
It smoothes out the steering response, making the car easy to drive.
It can make the car turn a little more in the middle and exit parts of a turn. Front Toe-out Increases turn-in steering a lot.
But can make the car wandery on the straights.
Never use more than 2 degrees of front toe-out!
Camber
Camber is best set so the tires' contact patch is as big as possible at all times. So with a stiff suspension and firm tires you'll need less camber than with a soft suspension or tires with big, flexible sidewalls.
If the tires wear evenly across their contact patches, camber is about right.
If you want to change anything please let me know and I will update table.
I am thinking of putting a lot more toe in on my front to aid grip. Here's a great site for information: R/C Car Handling - Touring Car Setup Guide
Caster
Caster is a very sensitive adjustment!
Adding or removing a few degrees of caster can transform the steering balance of a car. More More caster aids stability, especially at high speeds.
More caster generally suits large, open, high-speed tracks. Less Less caster increases steering drastically.
Steering feels much more direct, the car turns tighter and faster.
Small amounts of caster are suitable for tight tracks.
Toe
Rear Toe-in This is one of the most sensitive adjustments! One degree goes a long way.
Stabilizes the car greatly. It makes the rear end 'stick'. The more toe-in you use, the more the rear of the car sticks. This is especially apparent going into and coming out of turns.
But more toe-in makes the difference between sticking and breaking loose bigger.
Large amounts of toe-in (2.5 ... 3 degrees) scrub off a little speed in the straights. Rear Toe-out Rear toe-out is never used. It makes the rear of the car very, very unstable. Front Toe-in Stabilizes the car in the straights, and coming out of turns.
It smoothes out the steering response, making the car easy to drive.
It can make the car turn a little more in the middle and exit parts of a turn. Front Toe-out Increases turn-in steering a lot.
But can make the car wandery on the straights.
Never use more than 2 degrees of front toe-out!
Camber
Camber is best set so the tires' contact patch is as big as possible at all times. So with a stiff suspension and firm tires you'll need less camber than with a soft suspension or tires with big, flexible sidewalls.
If the tires wear evenly across their contact patches, camber is about right.
Last edited by Alex_997TurboRSC; 02-19-2009 at 07:57 AM.
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