93 Mazda RX7, LS1 swap
#1
05-09-2012, 05:27 PM
93 Mazda RX7, LS1 swap
Posting this for a friend.
93 Mazda RX7, LS1 swap
So I think I have decided to sell my baby, really looking ahead at some real estate deals, and need to free up some capital. This car gets driven maybe 3k miles a year, and it sits in a storage unit since I don't have a garage at home. Would be much better enjoyed by someone else who will actually use it to its full potential. I bought the car with the swap already done, but have rebuilt the motor twice, and changed just about everything cosmetically. Chassis has roughly 115k, motor 1200, and tranny around 60k.
This isn’t a typical swap. Swap was done from a whole 2001 Camaro parts car. He basically took the best of the two cars to make one. This car uses the Camaro body control module (for keyless entry/alarm functions), 4 channel ABS/traction control, plastic fuel tank/internally regulated fuel pump, and instrument cluster. Advantages described below.
4 channel ABS/traction control: Car uses the Bosch 5.3 ABS from the F-body. The ABS on the RX7 is an older three channel system and was starting to leak. The 4 channel ABS can work the rear wheels independently and is also necessary for the traction control. When driving the car with the FD ABS disabled and the front brakes would lock up almost instantly so maintaining ABS for him was a necessity. Not to mention the F-Body pump units are plentiful and can be found cheap. Traction control works well and uses three methods of power reduction when slip is sensed: ignition timing is pulled, if this doesn’t work the throttle starts closing, and finally if those didn’t work it will apply brake force to the slipping wheel/wheels. It can be turned off by a button press, but I can count on one hand the number of times I turned it off. I have found as long as you work with it, it works very well and will still allow the rear to get a little loose. This required all new brake tubing including an extra line run to the rear axle. All the stock brake hoses were retained as well as the Mazda ABS wheel sensors.You can see the FBody ABS pump in the top left corner of the bay:
F-body gas tank: This replaces the steel FD steel tank, is plastic and will not rust. Most importantly this allowed him to run a dual outlet exhaust to both sides of the car, which is essentially impossible with a stock FD tank. This permitted him to modify and use the SLP dual-dual Loudmouth stainless steel catback that came on the parts car. The F-body tank also uses an internally regulated fuel pump so you don’t need the vette external regulated fuel filter. The F-body EVAP system is also used and fully functional. This required the FD spare tire well to be removed, so there is no place to put a spare.
I have since added a couple of mufflers, so the exhaust is a little different.
F-body body control module: This car now has the camaro’s keyless entry. So the F-body remote is used which includes a trunk release button, he added a solenoid in the trunk so that this function would work. The dome lights, keyless and alarm functions work just like in an F-body.
F-body instrument cluster: Running the F-body gas tank and ABS sort of made this a necessity, for gauges and indication lights. He did not use the camaro cluster because the firebird cluster has amber lights so he installed a firebird cluster instead. This eliminates the need for the Dakota Digital speedo correction box, and the speedometer can be adjusted for different tire diameter/gears by a program like HP Tuners. The FD cluster hood was reworked with abs plastic, not fiberglass as he was concerned about fiberglass cracking and separating in the future. All the gauges and warning/indicator lights work just as they would in an F-body. Since he knew he had to rework the instrument cluster he was able to move the steering column up about 1 inch to make more room for knees, now there is a bit more space.
The first pic is before the new Steering wheel as well, second picture is more current.
I know, I know, I love the FD Gauge cluster as well, but really when you drive the car, and see how everything works perfectly together, you really start to appreciate the functionality over the aesthetics.
Just had it sprayed Viper Red, it really made the original red seem muted and dull. The paint is excellent, with no orange peel anywhere, its smooth as glass and looks stunning. Engine bay and jambs were not sprayed.
And this is how it looks today:
The motor was fully built by Dave at Next Level Performance, this shop has been featured in magazines and has cars shipped to them from all over the US. Its got a mild cam, very streetable, and a set of z06 heads ported by Champion Race heads. Forged Pistons with offet pins for quieter operation. I have the full specs sheet on the engine build available. JTR Headers, Custom Dual Exhaust, Custom CAI, Recaro pole Position SPG Seats (fixed mounted) NRG Wheel, and quick release hub, Diamond Clutch, 18x10 & 18x11 CCW Classics fully swissed and full polished These are about 2 months old, and get blown off after every wash with pressurized air to avoid water spots. 285/35 R and 275/35 F. Front tires are Nitto NT-01 non DOT tires, because the Hankook Ventus RS3's were on back order. These are fine in the dry, but I would not drive them in the rain. JDM Front lip, Shine Auto Rear Wing, Great stereo with 4 channel amp, and components, with 6x9's in custom enclosure in the rear. All new carpet, interior was originally tan, and has been proffesionally dyed and looks great. BC Racing coilovers with standard 8/6 spring rates, car drives great on the street. Rolled fenders F&R. New Poly bushings throughout entire car. Seibon CF hood, Granny's subframe will not allow for stock hood. HID's high and low beams. New starter and alternator, all 4 wheel bearings have been replaced less than 1500 miles ago. Stop Tech Big Brake kit, pads are like new. Hurst modified short shifter, which now has the 8 ball style shift knob, also have original leather Hurst knob pictured. Car dyno'd 392/388 and is very quick. Before the heads it went 12.4@116 on street tires and 10" wide rims, the car made 30whp less then it does now. I'm sure there is much more I am forgetting, so please feel free to ask.
Issues with car: Engine bay and jambs were not painted, voltage reads a little low on gauge, but on a real voltmeter its perfect 13.7v. The rear end whines between 60-70mph, it has done this since I bought the car 1.5 years ago, and I do not know the cause. It has never gotten any worse, and is silent in any other mph range. Thats it. A very short list.
I have a CD which contains build photos and all wiring diagrams used in this build, including the systems of Traction Control, ABS, and BCM wiring. This is no hack build, all wiring is soldered, and uses factory connections whenever possible.
Price: $30,000.
PM me for owner's contact info.
#9
05-18-2012, 09:51 AM
I would assume the 392/388. Very easy to do with an LS engine, he said the car dynoed, not engine.
