My Cargraphic powerkit conversion
#43
Alex, you probably remember last year when I went up over 600 ft lbs of torque in my 997TT and the factory clutch just wouldn't hold it.
If you recall, I went with the Sachs Stage II with LWFW. I have not had a single issue since - and I have pushed the hell out of the car. Never even a whiff of clutch no matter what I do. It is a beast.
But - as I think we discussed before - the LWFW chatters quite a bit. But the throttle response is much improved with the LWFW.
If you are looking for a new clutch, check out the Sachs unit.
If you recall, I went with the Sachs Stage II with LWFW. I have not had a single issue since - and I have pushed the hell out of the car. Never even a whiff of clutch no matter what I do. It is a beast.
But - as I think we discussed before - the LWFW chatters quite a bit. But the throttle response is much improved with the LWFW.
If you are looking for a new clutch, check out the Sachs unit.
#44
The factory aerokit IS growing on me still but it's an awful lot of money for just a lip and a fixed rear wing.
The TechArt type 1 kit is more aggressive but again, even MORE money for a kit that makes your car look pretty much the same, just with an add-on look.
The TechArt type 2 kit is the best of the kits I think in terms of making it look different, pretty and having good down-force. However that costs more than a new Mazda MX-5 would!
The TechArt type 1 kit is more aggressive but again, even MORE money for a kit that makes your car look pretty much the same, just with an add-on look.
The TechArt type 2 kit is the best of the kits I think in terms of making it look different, pretty and having good down-force. However that costs more than a new Mazda MX-5 would!
#45
Alex, you probably remember last year when I went up over 600 ft lbs of torque in my 997TT and the factory clutch just wouldn't hold it.
If you recall, I went with the Sachs Stage II with LWFW. I have not had a single issue since - and I have pushed the hell out of the car. Never even a whiff of clutch no matter what I do. It is a beast.
But - as I think we discussed before - the LWFW chatters quite a bit. But the throttle response is much improved with the LWFW.
If you are looking for a new clutch, check out the Sachs unit.
If you recall, I went with the Sachs Stage II with LWFW. I have not had a single issue since - and I have pushed the hell out of the car. Never even a whiff of clutch no matter what I do. It is a beast.
But - as I think we discussed before - the LWFW chatters quite a bit. But the throttle response is much improved with the LWFW.
If you are looking for a new clutch, check out the Sachs unit.
Yeh, I am really on the fence about the LWFW.
I do like the idea of better throttle response 1-3rd gears BUT I really don't like the idea of taking a classy supercar and making it have a loud rattle. That would just be embarrassing! Plus really not help resale. Every mod I have made to my car thus far has been better in every respect than the original factory component; polishing if you will. This I feel may be too much compromise.
Bob over on 6speed is going to make me a video of his LWFW rattle so I can see how bad it is. Hopefully this will help me to decide. Otherwise I think I will just go with a Sachs stage 2 kit with a 890Nm pressure plate.
Last edited by Alex_997TurboRSC; Mar 1, 2010 at 07:27 AM.
#47
#49
I took the Turbo out this morning and tried to replicate the slipping clutch. Temperatures were between 5-7 degC. In 5th gear and below I couldnt get any slip no matter what I tried. In 6th, with full acceleration from 60mph with overboost (1.2 bar) on a flat motorway - nothing.
So it seems that only at 50mph in 6th gear do I get clutch slip. I can still smell the clutch from last week when I did it though!
So I'm not so sure I need a new clutch right now after all. I think if it starts slipping more often then a Sachs stage 2 clutch with the OEM dual-mass-flywheel will be required. If I was going to move to a single-mass-flywheel then I would upgrade right now as it would be a performance enhancement. But for just a functional upgrade, I think I can avoid 50mph 6th gear runs in cold temps for daily drives and stick with OEM
So it seems that only at 50mph in 6th gear do I get clutch slip. I can still smell the clutch from last week when I did it though!
So I'm not so sure I need a new clutch right now after all. I think if it starts slipping more often then a Sachs stage 2 clutch with the OEM dual-mass-flywheel will be required. If I was going to move to a single-mass-flywheel then I would upgrade right now as it would be a performance enhancement. But for just a functional upgrade, I think I can avoid 50mph 6th gear runs in cold temps for daily drives and stick with OEM
#50
I took the Turbo out this morning and tried to replicate the slipping clutch. Temperatures were between 5-7 degC. In 5th gear and below I couldnt get any slip no matter what I tried. In 6th, with full acceleration from 60mph with overboost (1.2 bar) on a flat motorway - nothing.
So it seems that only at 50mph in 6th gear do I get clutch slip. I can still smell the clutch from last week when I did it though!
So I'm not so sure I need a new clutch right now after all. I think if it starts slipping more often then a Sachs stage 2 clutch with the OEM dual-mass-flywheel will be required. If I was going to move to a single-mass-flywheel then I would upgrade right now as it would be a performance enhancement. But for just a functional upgrade, I think I can avoid 50mph 6th gear runs in cold temps for daily drives and stick with OEM
So it seems that only at 50mph in 6th gear do I get clutch slip. I can still smell the clutch from last week when I did it though!
So I'm not so sure I need a new clutch right now after all. I think if it starts slipping more often then a Sachs stage 2 clutch with the OEM dual-mass-flywheel will be required. If I was going to move to a single-mass-flywheel then I would upgrade right now as it would be a performance enhancement. But for just a functional upgrade, I think I can avoid 50mph 6th gear runs in cold temps for daily drives and stick with OEM





























