Hi folks

For those DIY'ers out there like myself, I am putting together a walk-through tutorial of doing an oil change on a Murcielago. It's not altogether different from doing an oil change on any other car, but because of the dry sump system there are some caveats to the norm. I will be adding pics and updating based on feedback I receive. In the meantime, I will post what I have.

Please refer to the following images the service manual when reading the content below.







I am using Esco jackstands and they work great for the Murci!


Just take care of your nose-to-ground clearance when lifting from the rear!


I use measured propylene pitchers to catch the drain oil so I can accurately measure how much oil comes out.
Click here to buy.





For routine oil changes on the Murcielago I have been told by an expert at LamboStuff that one should NOT drain the oil tank (drain plug marked as "1" in the above diagram), but instead should only to drain the sump (two drain plugs marked as "2" in the diagram above), in order to avoid letting the crank go completely dry. Additionally I was told that the oil tank drain plug is very fragile and the spout can bend if too much torque is applied.

Note: This tutorial is mostly based on feedback from Logan @ Lambostuff, but also includes recommendations and tips from multiple forums, as well as the bit of information that is available in the service manual.

Caution: You will be working with a hot engine and hot fluids for most of these steps! Wear gloves, eye protection, and take care to avoid burns!

Recommended Materials:
- AGIP SINT 2000 10w-40 (Sold in 12L case, but you will probably only use 11-11.5L)
Click here to buy - note that Agip's site can sometimes be VERY slow. Be patient.

- Lambostuff N0138481 SUMP CRUSH WASHER $2.00
Click here to buy

- Lambostuff 07M115561 UFI Oil Filter $50.37
Click here to buy

- Measured propylene pitchers to catch the drain oil. You'll need about four of them. Click here to buy.

- 8mm Hex socket

- Torque wrench

- Oil filter wrench


Instructions
1. Warm the engine to operating temp (> 70C) then turn off the engine.

2. Uncap the oil tank cap in the engine bay (A). This allows oil to flow out of the tank and into the sump in the following steps.

3. Remove one of the two drain plugs on the sump using an 8mm hex socket bit (2).

4. Wait for a slow drip (ie. don't let it drip for a long time like one might do on a non-dry sump system). Depending on several conditions the oil flow may start out being high and then slow down rapidly after the first 3-4L come out. The oil drain may become a very slow, thin drain. That is normal.
**If possible, take note of how much oil came out. This is the amount you should put back in (ie. don't overfill!).


!!!!!!!!!!!!
Take care not to "over drain". You will likely be leaving 2-3L in the car after you finish draining. This is as far as you should go for a DIY oil change on the Murcielago. Attempting a more thorough drain risks running the crank dry which could result in an engine rebuild down the road. You have been warned! If a complete drain is required then it might be better to take the car to a professional.
!!!!!!!!!!!!



5. Replace drain plug on the sump (2) and use a new crush washer. Use a torque wrench to tighten the drain plug to about 20-22 ft-lbs.

6. Remove old oil filter.

7. Fill new oil filter with oil and lubricate the filter gasket with oil.

8. Reinstall the new filter, hand tighten.

9. Fill the engine (B) with 3L.

10. Fill the oil tank (A) with the amount of oil needed to match the volume that drained minus the 3L put into the engine. 8L max.

11. Take care not to overfill!

12. Warm the engine to operating temp.

13. Turn off the motor, let it sit for 30 seconds. Check for leaks.

14. Check fluid levels, ensure level is between min and max dots. If oil must be added, repeat steps 12-14.


Notes:
-Either drain plug on the sump will work. If using a lift then use the one that is closest to the back of the car. If using a floor-jack to lift from the rear then use the drain plug that is closest to the front of the car.

-Tightening the oil filter with the "One-and-a-half turn after it starts to tighten" method works fine for the Murci.


Here is a neat little 3/4" PVC setup I found while surfing that can facilitate getting oil into the oil tank filler (A).




Thanks for reading! Good luck and PM me if you have questions..

Cheers

 

Very cool! You sir are a true enthusiast!

Thanks for taking the time to write all this out. I don't have a Murci and doubt I ever will but it's still interesting to read.

Just out of curiousity, how much would the average Lambo dealer charge for an oil change? Does the Murci take a standard oil filter or is it a Lambo specific part?

 

Thanks Alex!

There are other oils (Castrol, Mobil 1) and other filters that can be used. I posted the ones recommended by Lambo. Some guys prefer Mobil 1 because it is easier to get ahold of, and cheaper. Personally I like to stick with the mfr's recommendation.

Agip is a VERY good oil when you compare specs. A buddy of mine is an "oil enthusiast" and keeps up with the latest blends, etc and he tells me that Agip is top-notch compared to other brands that add detergents, lead, etc to their blend.

I've never had an authorized Lambo dealer do an oil change. I've not had a dealer do oil changes on any car I've owned in the last 15 years, now that I think about it! From what I've read, depending on where you go (eg. authorized dealer vs personal technician) the cost of a Murci or Gallardo oil change can range from $500 to $1500, but it can be tough to tell if other regular maintenance was included in those prices. The Gallardo is also a tad bit more labor intensive (the oil filter is more difficult to reach, and there are a few other steps involved), so that might account for some of the cost variance as well.

For the DIY crowd it is a good idea to document each oil change that you do yourself, to keep the receipts for the parts and fluids in your records, and even to take notes such as the clarity of the oil that comes out, the amount that came out, describing particulates in the oil, etc. This is a good practice for all cars, but especially for exotics when it comes time for resale.

Cheers!

 

nice!!

 

Nice to know Lambo still believes in dry sump engine, unlike Porsche and their fake dry sump A91.

And props to you sir for being probably the only Lambo owner that changes his own oil.

 

I use the 4T 20/50 racing oil in mine.
Takes a tad longer to warm up, but a noticable 10 degree C drop in temp or so when it hot

 

Sweet Info, brah! Now i need to learn how to do this on my Evoluzione!

 

You running that oil in your Diablo or in another car in your sig? How expensive is that oil? Do you run the car pretty hard? Thanks for the report! I don't know anyone running 20/50. What climate do you live in?

Nice collection btw. You have good taste! Would love to see pics!

 

In the Diablo

If you get oil from the dealer normal Agip is like $12/qt, if you buy in from Agip NA its like $4, however the 4T 20w/50 racing is like $11/qt from them and mine holds about 15qts.
Sometimes I run it hard (track and back roads) and it definitely helps keeps temps down over the stock 10w/40. Under normal driving it doesnt really matter unless its like over 80 and in stop and go traffic. The 4T 20w/50 is also fully systethic while the 10w/40 stock oil is a blend. Im in Indy so temps are in the 10s/20s/30s in winter and 70s/80s/90s in summer, but the car really only sees the road when temps are between 50-85ish. No traction below 45 and too damn hot inside over 85 for me

Thinking about trying Royal Purple 10w40 as it seems to be the best oil out there and with a lower weight the car should rev faster and not get as hot if its better Already got Royal Purple in the tranny and its a definite improvment.

 

Thanks for the writeup! Sounds like the factory recommended "hard running" option is fairly accessible.

I've heard good things about Royal Purple in the past. If you switch over please report back on your impressions.